Is Angels Landing the world's most spectacular hike?

Angels Landing is renowned as one of the world's scariest and most spectacular hikes. So I felt the fear and did it anyway.

“Don’t look down. Don’t look down. Don’t look down.”

I’m scrambling up a narrow ridge on one of the world’s scariest hikes, Angels Landing in Utah, reciting this mantra and hoping I won’t panic. 

Far below the Virgin River snakes silently along the canyon floor. On either side is a 400m drop. I’m not looking though; my eyes are scoping out the next bit of gritty sandstone to be tackled as the morning sun starts heating up.

Heights aren’t my favourite thing. I don’t get off on danger, but this hike is so unusual and so spectacular and my partner is loving it so much that I just  feel the fear and keep going. “People die doing this,” I’m thinking. “I could die doing this. Actually it's a fucking miracle more people don’t die doing this!”

Not the whole way though. Mainly when negotiating a narrow ledge with a sheer drop off on one side and pulling myself up a cliff with a steel chain, which is what you’re doing most of the time through the middle section.

 But don’t be put off! This hike is truly one of the wonders of the world.

Located in Utah’s Zion National Park, Angels Landing is a massive spine of rock rising 500m from the valley floor.

Methodist minister Frederick Vining Fisher named it a century ago after he whimsically surmised only angels might land there. The name stuck and the trail was built in the 1920’s.

Not only is it incredible that it was made climbable way back then but also in this safety-conscious era the potential danger hasn't led to its closure. 

Yet.

It's becoming increasingly popular and since 2004, 10 people have died after falling while on the trail, including two this year – a 13 year old girl and a 19 year old woman.

It’s physically challenging and probably isn’t for those with a serious fear of heights. But if you’ve got a decent level of fitness and can walk the line between fear and exhilaration, put it on the bucket list!

It’s totally unique and completely unforgettable. And who knows how long we'll be allowed to keep doing it?

Zion National Park is only two and half hours’ drive from Las Vegas, gateway to the beautiful American Southwest.

We were ready for an urban detox after a few days in Las Vegas so we rented a car and drove to Springdale, a pretty mountain town on the edge of Zion National Park.

You can’t take cars into the park but there a brilliant free shuttle service that leaves regularly from the visitor centre, a couple of minutes’ walk from where we were staying at Cable Mountain Lodge.

It pays to start early because this is the most popular trail in the park so we caught the 7am shuttle which drops you off at the grotto about halfway up the valley. It was 7.30am and still early-summer cool and shady when we started walking.

The trail starts benignly, winding along the valley floor and crossing the river before it starts to climb. It’s wide and paved thus easy to overtake slower walkers at this stage. The path soon steepens into some serious switchbacks but the views across the canyon are so amazing you forget your pounding heart and burning quads.

Around 90 minutes after starting the switchbacks come to an end and it’s here that the scary part starts. Scout’s Landing is a flat area with restrooms where we stopped to take some pictures and size up what was ahead and it was pretty damn awesome.

 Scouts Landing still provides amazing views if you don't want to go all the way to Angels Landing

People were moving single file along the narrow ridge with straight drops either side. It seemed inconceivable they could safely climb up that sliver of rock, but a series of chains bolted into the cliff makes it possible.

All kinds of folk were heading up, even a grandmother with grandkids in tow. Fat and skinny, young and old it seemed neither age nor fitness was a barrier.

You really are hanging onto the chains a lot of the way so it's taxing on both arms and legs (plus you’re focusing and saying your mantras!) It’s a total mind/body workout for me, though my partner has no fear of heights and bounds along like a gazelle, well ahead of cautious old me. I have to stop for breath regularly but the views - when you feel safe enough to stop and look - are absolutely mind blowing and it’s a wildly exhilarating standing at the top looking out across that canyon. 

We arrived there just before 9.30am and spent time taking pictures, snacking and celebrating with the squirrels before tackling the descent. Just being on that rock is a huge buzz in itself. The path was getting pretty crowded by this stage and there were bottle-necks where people coming up had to give way to those going down - or vice versa - not everyone seemed to understand give way etiquette...

We got back to the lodge around 1pm and jumped in the pool, elated. We’d just done one of the most spectacular walks in the world!

Ahh....but was it the most spectacular?

Well now, you'll just have to go and find out for yourself.  

Top Tip

Timing is important especially if you're bothered by queues. If you get to Scout's Landing and see the first chains are empty don't wait around taking pictures just go for it. Same on the way down. And start early. We were there in June and thought the 7am shuttle was the first of the day but turns out in summer the first one is at 6am.  

Staying & Playing

Cable Mountain Lodge has manicured, tree-filled gardens and pool with amazing views of the Watchman, another iconic rock formation in Zion. It’s right on the park doorstep but still walking distance to cafes and restaurants. We stayed two nights and fit in a couple of shorter walks to the lower Emerald Pools and the Watchman but you could easily stay three or four nights and add on the famous Narrows which is 25 kilometres long and involves hiking in the Virgin River for half the way. Observation Point is about 12km and gives stunning views over Angels Landing and the rest of the park, which is open in spring, summer and autumn. Tracks can close anytime due to rockfall or flash floods so it pays to check the park website when planning a trip. 

Eating 

The Whiptail Grill offers tasty, fresh and healthy Mexican food in a friendly atmosphere with a range of local beers. Oscar’s Café is another fabulous Mexican joint but portions are big! Park House café has great coffee and breakfasts and a funky vibe. For something a little special try the Spotted Dog Café for seasonal and local-inspired bistro dining. Be aware this is Utah so some places only sell low alcohol beer. 

Shopping

Step inside the air-conditioned cool of Tribal Arts Zion and you won’t want to leave anytime soon. There’s a big collection of beautiful, authentic Native American art, from dream catchers to pottery, jewelery, rugs, paintings and masks – mementos for any budgets. There's also several fascinating rock and gem shops in Springdale.