Walking the Magical Milford Track in Style

The posh option...

Not everyone wants to share a hut with 40 smelly snorers; there is a posh option with Ultimate Hikes. Private or dormitory room with ensuite, delicious food and wine, lovely new people to chat with and four fabulous guides.

I did this last year with Mr T, although I have to confess we lucked in with the weather. It was late February/early March and we had sunshine every day - a rarity as Milford is one of the wettest places in the world. That's why it's so green and mossy and filled with waterfalls!

Hell, it's stunning whatever the weather. 

Getting started...

Our bus left Ultimate Hikes' downtown Queenstown headquarters in early-morning (8am) misty rain, bound for Te Anau. Halfway there the sun came out and continued to shine for the next four days....and if it happened for me it can happen for you! After lunch in the township we boarded a boat and chugged for an hour across the lake to Glade Wharf, where the track began. Immediately we started walking it was apparent we were in a place with an over-abundance of water! The vegetation was so incredibly thick and luxuriant and rich.

And we're off! Gotta get a photo at the start line

It was early afternoon when we arrived at Glade House and that meant it was time to choose what we wanted for dinner that night: chicken parmigiana, rack of lamb or roast vegetable lasagne. Oh boy! Did I tell you the food was an absolute highlight? We got to do this every day and it never failed to excite us when that list came around with the day's options. 

Where's the bar?....Heading for our first night's accomodation

Settling in...Flora to Pomplona

There were still several hours before dinner however so we headed out for a walk in the enchanted forest behind the lodge: a chance for our guides to do some detective work and suss out if anyone wasn't up to chop. We all passed muster, even the two octogenarians celebrating their 80th birthdays. After dinner we were grouped by country (USA, NZ, Australia, England and Korea) and formally introduced ourselves to the whole group.

It was a good mix, people in their twenties right through to their 80's and really diverse. We had two brothers from Australia who were taking their mum on her dream holiday. A group of Koreans who'd drink and and talk and laugh uproariously every night then hit the track at lightening speed next morning. We couldn't figure out how they managed it! A young San Franciscan who had six months leave from her finance job and was travelling the world. A father and son who were the most classic, laconic kiwi bloke farmers you can imagine. A judge from Rochester, New York and his beautiful wife who celebrated her birthday on the trip. A retired theatrical couple from northern NSW. A sparky young woman who'd chucked in her job to travel the world - and her older male travelling companion who dared to suggest during the introductions that he was her sugar daddy...uh oh! It turned out to be a great group of people from all walks of life. 

Introductions completed we headed for bed and dreams of keas and mountain passes. 

The following morning we set off at 8.30am, crossing the Clinton River via swing bridge. The track pretty much follows the river for the first couple of hours. It's 16 kilometres to Pomplona Lodge and the valley was still deeply shaded with a chilly mist hanging in the air. Rugged up with hats, gloves and warm jackets it was mostly quiet but for the crunching of our boots. We were in a group of about ten with the lead guide, Susan but over the course of the day it was easy to hike on your own and get away from everybody. The guides were great; always upbeat and happy to chat away and answer our questions, they seemed to love their work. 

A spectacular vista opens up from the wetlands

A detour took us to open wetlands and a welcome first touch of sun before rejoining the track. We stopped for lunch at a rustic shelter - hot drinks and sandwiches (with a few sandflies thrown in) - and a first glimpse of Mackinnon Pass. As the beech trees thickened and our path began to climb we arrived at our second night's accomodation, Pomplona Lodge, a newly renovated oasis in the bush.

Pomplona to Mitre Peak...

The path steepens as you approach Pomplona Lodge

Relaxing in the lounge at the end of day two

We were up early on day three for Mackinnon Pass - beautiful, steep and quite challenging for some of the older walkers. People assume Milford is a 'walk in the park' because it's one of the great walks but this day is tough. There's an elevation gain of around 1000m and you lose that much again coming down the other side. Hiking poles are a really good idea for this section. It's a true mountain pass with tussock and tarns - and the views from the top take in deep valleys and distant mountains. As you descend there's an amazing section where you're coming down these steps and you're literally in the treetops above the Cascade waterfalls. I think this was everyone's favourite day even though it was the hardest physically.

A dusting of snow on nearby mountains as we climb Mackinnon Pass

Cheeky weka looking for food at lunchtime

That mountain feeling...enjoying the breeze at the top 

We staggered in to Quintin Lodge mid-afternoon, but after knocking back some OJ and muffins we set off again for Sutherland Falls, a 90-minute side trip. At 580 metres it's one of the world's highest waterfalls so very much worth it even if your legs are a bit wobbly. There were a few folk rubbing their feet that night, myself included!

Dramatic Sutherland Falls is one of the world's highest waterfalls

The fourth day is the longest in distance (21km) but it's easy walking on the flat. Some of the most iconic Milford scenery was here, it's real rainforest country. There's moss, moss and more moss, waterfalls, ferns and an other-worldly emerald light. We stopped mid-morning at an historic boat shed in the Arthur Valley for oranges, tea and ginger crunch. And at Giant Gate Waterfall a handful of hardy souls stripped down and jumped into the icy water before lunch - nine degrees? Brrrrr!!!

The scenery on the fourth day is spectacular

Swing bridge above Giant Gate Waterfall with its nine degree swimming hole...

The track ends at Sandfly Point where we caught a water taxi over to Mitre Peak Lodge. This historic former THC Hotel sits at the head of Milford Sound (named Eighth Wonder of the World by Rudyard Kipling!) and has lovely mid-century decor and sublime views across the fiord.  

The view from our room at Mitre Peak Lodge looking out towards the fiord

We had a bit of a party that night and then it was the last day! Some folk looked a little worse for wear in the morning but the only walking needed was down to the terminal where a cruise boat took us on a ride to see the majesty of Milford Sound. No dolphins that day - but we did see the cutest pair of Fiordland crested penguins.

A bus returned us to Queenstown and by late afternoon the Milford Track was no longer a dream, but a very special memory. 

A special experience...

There were about 45 of us on this trip so it’s not the lone hiker experience you might be used to. There’s a lot of social interaction with meals and sometimes you're walking together on the track, although it's easy to walk alone. It's a bit like a long school camp without kids and with great food and wine. 

But it's fun to share the experience with a group - you never know who you're going to meet or connect with and the guides bring a richness of knowledge that adds an extra layer. Coincidentally Mr T's former next door neighbour was one of our guides, which they finally worked out on our final night, leading to great reminiscing about growing up in Dunedin. 

Milford Track is fabulous and rightly world famous and it’s here in our own backyard so whichever way you choose, by hut or by lodge, get out and do it!
 
Ultimate Hikes is currently taking bookings for an amended 2020/2021 season from December to April 

Bookings for Department of Conservation huts open on June 9.

What are you waiting for!